A deliciously delicate flavour, supposedly reminiscent of oysters and asparagus.   They look unprepossessing, a bit like underdeveloped parsnips, with an odd colour to boot, but they are quite superb.

• They will do best in a soil dug deeply in autumn, stone-free, and without adding manure (like carrots).
• Sow seed, 6 inches apart, in rows 1 foot apart. As they grow, thin to about 9-12 inches apart - don't bother transplanting the thinnings.
• Water in dry weather.
• And from mid-October, you can start lifting the roots, through to January or February.   You will have to dig deep to pull the whole root out - they are easy to break.

If the Scorzonera roots are still too thin, you can leave them in a further year - they are a perennial plant, so the roots will just get bigger and fatter!

Sadly, this doesn't work with Salsify - in the second year, it will flower, set seed, and die.   You can harvest flower buds when they're plump, just before they open - steam or boil them lightly and serve with a vinaigrette; or let them flower, and sprinkle petals on a salad.   Alternatively, in autumn cut off the old leaves about 1 inch high, and cover with 6 inches of soil; shoots will push their way through, becoming blanched as they go, and can be harvested at 4-5 inches long - apparently they can be used like Witloof chicory (something to try this year, when the crop's not been so good!)

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Using in the kitchen

• Scrub the roots, trim the ends, and cut into 2 inch lengths.   Cook for 25 minutes in boiling salted water - with a little lemon juice to stop them discolouring.   Drain them and peel off the skin.   Toss in melted butter and chopped parsley or lemon thyme.   Delicious with a fine piece of grilled fish!
• They can also be roasted, boiled'n mashed (on their own or with carrots, swedes), or served au gratin with cheese and breadcrumbs.   Parsnip chips work - so might salsify chips?

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