I include Runner Beans merely to be complete, knowing that at some time I will have to try them - if only to see why everybody else puts so much effort into them.

I think I'd rather try climbing French Beans, though.

• Runner Beans need a soil which was dug in autumn, well-manured, and limed in winter.   Pick a sheltered spot where the shade cast by the plants will not be a problem.
• They will particularly enjoy a trench prepared the previous autumn; dig out a trench, maybe 18 inches wide and one spit deep; line the bottom with strawy manure or compost, and replace the top soil.   This will enrich the soil, and help retain moisture.   Alternatives to manure or compost - some use old woollens, shredded newspaper, vegetable kitchen waste (uncomposted)!
• Sow seed about 2 inches deep, 9 inches apart, in rows 18 inches apart; push sturdy 8 foot poles/canes firmly in at each seed, and tie a cross bar along the top - the usual "A" frame.   Alternatively, sow and pole to make a wigwam shape.
• Loosely tie young plants to supports - they will soon climb naturally.   When the plants have reached the top of the frame, pinch out the growing tip.
• Keep the beans weed-free; they will need regular watering when the weather is dry and the pods have started forming.
• Pick regularly, every couple of days, as soon as the pods reach a reasonable size, before the beans start to swell - 6 to 8 inches long.   You will need to remove all the pods which reach this stage, whether you can use them or not.   If you allow even a couple of pods to mature, the plants will stop producing.

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Storing and Uses

You now have a glut of beans - you can . . .

• freeze some;
• salt some (alternate layers of 3 lb of beans, with 1 lb of salt);
• or dry the pods, shell and dry the beans, and use as haricots through the winter.

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