» Companion Planting
- All the squash and cucumber family do well alongside beans and sweetcorn;
- giving shade to the corn rootrun -
- while benefiting from the dappled shade -
- and from the beans/peas' nitrogen-fixing properties.
The world's first domesticated vegetable may well have been the squash - evidence of 10,000 year old cultivation of squash has been found in Mexican caves. Grains were domesticated a couple of thousand years earlier.
Sadly, I'm a bit too far north to be able to grow the squash family reliably outside - but I enjoy cooking them, so I keep trying.
Technique
- In May, dig holes 12 inches square, and 12 inches deep. Fill the holes with a mixture of soil and compost or well-rotted manure - make sure you have a mound on the top.
- For cucumbers, the holes should be 18 inches apart;
- for bush squash, 24 inches apart;
- for trailing squash, 48 inches apart;
- Two weeks later, in late May or early June, plant three seeds edgeways, 1 inch deep, a few inches apart, in the centre of each mound. Cover with a cloche, to aid germination.
- Keep the cloche on for a few weeks, and remove the weakest two seedlings.
- Cucumbers - pinch out the growing tip when the plants have 6 or 7 leaves. Allow the side shoots which develop to trail, or train them up strong netting. Pinch out any shoots not bearing flowers at the 7th leaf.
- Trailing Squash - pinch out the tips of the main shoots when they reach 2 feet long.
- All are very thirsty plants indeed, and need LOTS of water around (not on) the plants. The soil must always be moist.
- Handy hint - cut the bottom off a large pop bottle, and stick it neck-down well into the soil (not a bad idea to leave a cane sticking up to show through the growing plant!). Filling the bottle gets water right down to the roots.
- Place black polythene or a mulch round the plants before fruits start to form.
- In cold weather, you may have to help marrows - pull a male flower, bend back the petals, and insert it into the female flower (small marrow behind the flower) to ensure fertilisation.
- Feed the plants every couple of weeks with comfrey tea, tomato fertiliser, or equivalent after the fruits have started to swell.
- If you want larger fruits for winter storage, limit the pumpkins or squashes to 2 or 3 per plant. Just nip out the growing tips, and remove excess flowers.
- Harvesting - all will benefit from continuous picking to encourage further fruiting. Cut the fruits with a very sharp knife - don't tug the stalks!
- Gherkins (young cucumbers) can be picked at about 4 inches long.
- Cucumbers at 6-8 inches long.
- Apple Cucumbers when they are the size of a duck's egg.
- Courgettes at 4 inches long.
- Marrows at 8-10 inches long.
- for Marrows, Pumpkins, and Squashes for winter storage, allow the fruits to mature on the plants and remove them before any frost. Store them in a cool room, and they should keep at least until Christmas.
- I haven't had much success sowing indoors, and transplanting - not enough light on a windowsill, and hardening off is not easy. Worth a go, with newspaper pots? I may also try "pop bottle cloches" this year though - give them a bit of help in the first couple of weeks.
Growing Calendar - Cucumbers and Squashes
Timings are based on my allotment in Yorkshire; southerners will start earlier, northerners even later!
Cucumber - outdoors (fits anywhere in your rotation)![]()
Marrows and Courgettes (fit anywhere in your rotation)![]()
Pumpkin and Squash (fit anywhere in your rotation)![]()