I sow Little Gem lettuce through the brassica bed (the slugs head for the lettuce, and I know where to find the slugs), and interplant Marigolds (Tagetes) whose strong scent is supposed to mask the brassicas' own smell, and confuse the Cabbage Whites.
Sowing nasturtiums among your brassicas is supposed to deter whitefly infestations.
I have read that a border of herbs (mint, sage, rosemary, dill, etc) is supposed to have the same effect - but sounds so impractical, I personally won't even try this one.
I'm wary of growing brassicas with anything else - they are so greedy. But a couple of interesting ideas
- Sowing beans/peas before or with brassica makes sense;
- Transplanting winter brassica with sweetcorn - they'll get a real boost when the corn is cleared.
- But I'm uncomfortable with these suggestions from Bob Flowerdew:-
- A row of peas flanked by one of potatoes and one of brassica on either side benefits all three;
- Or a row of peas and a row of wide-spaced potatoes intercropped with overwintering brassicas; the brassicas get a real boost, when the others are cleared;
Our favourite vegetable is the Romanesco - the head is a delicate shade of almost lime green, and grows in the most beautiful whorled form. It has a superb fresh flavour!
Broccolis tend to grow one main head. When that's been cut, it throws a whole lot of side heads - the original cut-and-come-again; keep harvesting the side heads, but don't strip the plant completely. (By contrast, cauliflowers grow one head only.)
There are three main types
- Purple Sprouting - the hardiest and easiest to overwinter; cook them and they turn green (sadly!)
- White Sprouting produces small cauliflower-like spears.
- Calabrese - a much more delicate crop, producing green heads from August until the first frosts. Romanesco (in the same section in the seed catalogues) is a lot hardier, and produces heads at least until mid-November, sometimes even February.
Growing Tips
- Broccoli needs a soil dug over and manured the previous autumn, and allowed to consolidate. Lime if necessary in winter. Don't loosen the soil again in spring.
- Select varieties to get a spread of autumn green broccoli, and early and late sprouting crops in the spring.
- I sow seed thinly in shallow drills 6 inches apart, directly in a seed bed. (They can also be started in seed trays inside - but this hasn't worked for me; I don't have good enough light, and they didn't like the shock of being moved to a cold windy allotment!)
- Protect by covering with fleece or enviromesh tunnel.
- Thin the seedlings to about 3 inches apart.
- When they are 3 inches high, they are ready to transplant. Water the night before. Pop the seedlings into holes, so the lower leaves are just above soil level, and water generously
- 12 inches apart for green broccolis,
- 18 inches apart for sprouting broccolis,
- It may be worth planting them into a furrow about 4 inches deep, and earthing up the plants as they mature; this will help the plants stay stable, and encourage them to grow larger root systems.
- Protect from pigeons by weaving string across and along the bed.
- Water if the weather is dry. Applying some liquid feed is a good idea as the heads begin to mature.
- Harvest when the spears are well formed, before the flower buds open. Snap off the main spears first, to encourage side shoots to form. Keep picking these, but don't strip a plant completely.
- When the plant is finished, compost any green "stuff"; remove and burn the root balls (putting the roots in a compost heap is a recipe for problems with club-root).
- and deal with pests!
Storing and Uses
I cut Romanesco heads into florets, blanch for a couple of minutes, and open freeze them - and store in plastoic bags for Christmas!
With the flavour and texture of the fresh broccolis so superb, it is worth making the extra effort to stand the florets, stalk down, in an inch or two of boiling water for 10 to 15 minutes; keep the lid on. The tougher stalks cook well, and the gentler heads steam delicately. They will need no more than a dressing of olive oil (with or without a squeeze of lemon juice), or butter.
Or replace the cauliflower in Cauliflower Cheese!
Varieties I've tried.
Variety
About
Results
Purple Sprouting Late
Late Broccoli, ready April.
tried 2002, and 2003; lovely vegetable.
White Sprouting
Late Broccoli, ready March-April
Tried 2002; a small crop, with a more delicate flavour.
Rudolph
Early Broccoli, ready Dec-Jan
Tried 2002; small crop.
Green Sprouting
Calabrese - ready Aug-Sep
Tried 2002, good harvesting off 50% of the plants.
Pacifica
Calabrese - ready Aug-Sep
Tried 2003; trying for an improvement on 2002, but transplants trashed by vandals.
Romanesco
ready Aug-Sep
Try every year - my favourite vegetable; looks brilliant, tastes better, easy and problem free to grow, and surprisingly hardy - we've had romanesco heads ready to use in mid-February!
Growing Calendar - Broccoli
Timings are based on my allotment in Yorkshire; southerners will start earlier, northerners even later!
Winter Sprouting Broccoli (Brassica in rotation plan)![]()
Green Broccoli (including Calabrese and Romanesco)![]()